Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Course Update


Calabasas Country Club
Course Update

With 70 days of summer behind us and 20 left to go the crew is still working hard adjusting sprinklers and hand watering.

Up-coming events include our September 26th aerifcation of the putting greens; followed directly by rough and tee surface over seeding, I will post the schedule when it is finalized.
This aerification we will be using 1/2 inch hollow tines at a depth of 4 inches; The greens will be fertilized seeded and top-dressed with approximately 50 tons of sand. This smaller diameter tine will defiantly benefit the greens health and minimize disturbance to our members.

A few activities planned for this week include:

·         Repairing retaining wall and concrete behind 10 tee
·         Fertilizing greens
·         Gypsum application on greens
·         Edging sprinklers
·         String trimming streams
·         Preventive fungicide application
·         Bunker maintenance
·         Hand watering
·         Sprinkler repair and adjustment
·         Needle tine aerating traffic areas on greens

Regards,

Eric Wenzinger
Golf Course Superintendent

Friday, August 26, 2011

Magnolia Tree on Number 11

Storms in the late Spring of 2011 knocked over a 200 year old oak tree located on the left side of number 11 fairway. After the research of many different trees it was decided to transplant a magnolia tree from 10 tee to 11 fairway. 

Magnolia grandiflora: Also know as Southern Magnolia, Evergreen Magnolia, or Bull Bay. 

Flowers: Perfect, creamy white, beautifully fragrant, 8 to 12'' in diameter, in May-June, sporadically thereafter.

Diseases and Insects: Essentially problem free.

Size: 60 to 80' in height with a spread of 30 to 50'; national champion 98' by 90' in Jones City MS.

Leaf Color: Lustrous dark green above, lighter green below and often rusty color beneath.

Culture: Transplant balled-and-burlapped; soil should be rich, porous, acidulous and well-drained; full sun or partial shade.

Tolerates high soil moisture; often shocks (drops some leaves) when transplanted.

If leaves drop new growth replaces sings from transplanting.

The process took three days to complete and it will take another three or four days to rebuild the retaining wall and repair concrete behind 10 tee thank you for your patience during this process.





2-way Radio Installation


This week a 2-way radio system was installed on number 9 tee; the propose is for members to  order there lunch while playing the 9th hole.




Nursery Green Preparation


The preparation of a nursery green construction is under-way.
The nursery green is used as a bent-grass supply for replacing worn or damaged areas on the putting greens.
This is a four week process:
  • First the soil is sterilized with a fumigant
  • Then the area will be leveled 
  • Next the cores are spread over the prepared area. The cores are collected from our aerification June 26th. 
  • Last the area will be leveled and seeded; the green will be ready to use next summer.



Monday, August 15, 2011

Course Update

Calabasas Country Club
Course Update

It has been 97 days since the last rain; hand watering, drainage repairs and irrigation maintenance has and continues to be one of the major focal points on the course. Another important factor is the continued monitoring of the putting greens salinity, nitrate, and moisture levels along with a preventative disease and insect program.

A few activities planned for this week include:
o    Leaching the greens
o    Fungicide application
o    Dead tree removal
o    Planting new trees
o    Edging cart paths
o    Needle aerating high traffic areas on greens
o    Aerating high traffic areas in fairways and roughs
o    Spraying fairways with a growth regulator and wetting agent

Regards,

Eric Wenzinger
Golf Course Superintendent



Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Update

Calabasas Country Club
Course Update

This week the club has reached the 100 degree mark a few times and the crew is working hard at hand watering, adjusting sprinklers, installing new sprinklers and fixing drains; This is done to stay ahead of the heat and keep the course in great shape. Needle tine aerating on the greens will also be completed this week to aid the greens health through this hot season.
Fact: The needle tines are used because they do not disrupt play like the big hollow tines; they are not quite as effective that is the reason they are used more frequently. 

The rough is currently being mowed down to an acceptable level. I ask for your patience during this process as there will be lots of clippings, followed by loud sweepers and blowers picking them up. This process will be completed in one and a half to two weeks.

Also occurring this week is the addition to a cart path on the right side of the eighth green. There are more of these aesthetic enhancing projects planned throughout the fall and winter. I will post pictures of the development of this and other projects on the Course Maintenance Blog.

Regards,

Eric Wenzinger
Golf Course Superintendent

A few activities happening around the course.

Removing old tree stumps.
Sharpening mower reels.
Removing dead trees.
Pruning hazardous trees.
Edging bunkers.
Needle tine aerating and rolling the greens.

Friday, July 22, 2011

Leaching: Why is it Necessary?


I have been asked on occasion why we put down so much water on the greens and why they seems soft or slow.
Here is a article form Pace Turf that explains the reasons why we perform this procedure.

Leaching: Why is it Necessary?
Bottom line:
Greens leaching programs are designed to keep turf healthy by re­ducing soil salts. Un­fortunately, there are some tempo­rary side effects — wet greens and sur­rounds, softer turf, and slower greens. Are the benefits of leaching worth the inconvenient side ef­fects? The answer is definitely “yes”, and we will explain why here.
Salts, deadly poison for turf: What do you think is the most serious problem affecting the health and quality of putting greens? Most people believe that diseases, insects or weeds are the biggest threats, and indeed these pests can cause significant turf damage. But an even more serious threat is the build-up of soil salts.
The importance of rain: When there is enough rain, salts are rarely a problem. This is be­cause rain helps to leach, or wash away, the salts that ac­cumulate near the soil sur­face. Rain pushes salts down into the soil, beneath the area where plant roots grow.
But during periods of low rain­fall, this natural leaching does not occur, and salts build up.
Salts hurt turf in three dif­ferent ways: The most im­portant of these is known as physiological drought. When this occurs, the plant can’t get water from the soil, even when the soil is moist; this is­because salts in the soil liter­ally suck water away from the plant roots. The effect can be devastating, particularly to salt-sensitive turf such as an­nual bluegrass and bentgrass.
Secondly, accumulation of so­dium salts in the soil damages the structure of the soil itself. This can result in poor drain­age, low soil oxygen and poor water infiltration – all of which result in even more stress to the turf.
Finally, salt stress on turf makes it more susceptible to diseases, weeds and insects.
The key is to keep turf healthy by avoiding the build-up of soil salts BEFORE damage to turf occurs. And the best way to avoid salt build-up is to imple­ment a leaching program.
It’s all about balance: Main­taining a balance between soil salts and turf quality is a sig­nificant challenge.
To keep salt levels low, it is necessary to conduct leaching programs during periods of low rainfall. High leaching vol­umes (a few inches of water in an 8-hour period) of irrigation water are required to drive salts below the root zone.
This is why greens and sur­rounds can be soggy and soft following leaching. But the benefits are enormous. When done on a preventive basis– before turf damage due to salts is serious – turf and soil will become healthier, pest damage will decrease, and greens will remain green. It’s just that simple.
©2010 PACE Turf, 1267 Diamond Street, San Diego CA 92109 www.paceturf.org

Respecting the wet spots


Below is a article written by Pace Turf explaining some reasons for wet spots.
Regards,

Eric Wenzinger
Golf Course Superintendent

Respecting the wet spots
Rain is prefect, irrigation systems are not: Get­ting the right amount of wa­ter to turf, exactly where and when it needs it, is difficult, particularly for courses that rely on irrigation. This is due to the unfortunate fact that irrigation systems — even the best ones available — deliver water unevenly. As a result, while most areas get the right amount of water, others may get too much or too little.
Adding insult to injury: This problem is compounded by the fact soil types and drainage systems vary around the golf course, and also from course to course. For example, san­dy soils absorb water rapidly, which permits them to stay dry even when overwatered. In other soils, puddles can easily form, even when little water is applied. Variation in soil type explains why some courses have very few problems with wet spots, while others suffer from them all the time.
Which do you prefer? All of this variation causes a dilem­ma for superintendents and an annoyance for golfers. In order to keep the course free of wet spots, dry areas will oc­cur some locations. The turf here will decline due to lack of water, as in the photo below. Eventually, club-eating, wrist-cracking, unsightly bare areas of soil will form.
The alternative is to adjust the irrigation system so that the dry areas receive enough water, even though this means that more than enough wa­ter will be delivered to other areas of the course, and wet spots will develop. Yet this is the only way to ensure that turf will be alive, and turf qual­ity can be more consistently maintained through the year. Given this choice, while you may never love the wet spots, you will hopefully understand that their presence means that turf health and quality are being taken care of as well as possible. !
Bottom line:
Golf courses can be wetter in some areas than golfers like. This is often due to un­even irrigation cover­age — a problem that irrigation designers have not yet been able to solve. As a result, some areas of turf receive just the right amount of wa­ter, but other areas receive too much.
Although wet patch­es are not desirable, the alternative -- of allowing dry areas to become even dri­er and to eventually die -- is even less ac­ceptable.
In the end, suffering with occasional wet spots is a small price to pay for obtaining turf that is as consis­tent and high quality as possible.
©2010 PACE Turf, 1267 Diamond Street, San Diego CA 92109 www.paceturf.org